Giving thanks for Winter Greens

Everything gets sweeter in the winter—and I’m not just talking about holiday cookies, pies and cakes. Just before winter turns the world white, the hardy greens planted in late August and September come into their own.

This is because freezing temperatures change the chemical composition of cold-tolerant greens, making them not only sweeter, but kinder and gentler. The cold weather modulates their pungency without sacrificing any of their complexity.

The vibrant leafy greens that now carpet my brother Henry’s vegetable fields don’t even flinch with the first fall frosts, because the greater concentration of sugars and other compounds act as a natural antifreeze. In fact, Henry says that if he had his druthers, he’d never pick kale until after the first frost.

The stars of November’s field of greens include both salad greens (lettuces, arugula, escarole, endive, radicchio) and cooking greens— mainly in the nutritious brassica family, which includes kales, collards, mustards, cabbages, mizuna, rapini, brussel sprouts, Chinese broccoli (gai lan) and an enormous number of Asian greens, including the chois (bok choi, mei qing choi, yu choi), tatsoi, komatsuna and Chinese cabbages.

Asian greens may not be on your traditional Thanksgiving dinner menu, but there’s no time like the present to start a new tradition: fresh, healthy, green side dishes to counteract the fat in all the other holiday off erings.

Best of all, you can whip up a greens side dish in a few minutes.Chois are the original fast food—quick and versatile, with no trimming, peeling, or other busywork—and excellent in stir-fries, sautes and soups. Unlike typical fast foods, they are low in calories and high in fiber, plus they have high levels of vitamins A and C, potassium,calcium, folic acid, beta-carotene, zinc, manganese and magnesium.

There are hundreds of varieties of Asian greens, but don’t let all these varieties confuse you. They can be used interchangeably in most recipes, or added to your favorite stir-fries, sautes and soups.

Sauteed tatsoi in tangy mustard sauce

Adapted from Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini by Elizabeth Schneider

» 1 pound tatsoi

» 2 scallions

» 2 tablespoons lemon juice

» 1 teaspoon dijon mustard

» 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt or to taste

» 3 tablespoons olive oil

Trim tatsoi bases to separate leaves. Rinse and dry.

Mince scallion bulbs and thinly slice greens. Mix bulbs with lemon juice, mustard and salt, stirring to dissolve salt. Blend in oil.

Pour dressing into a very wide skillet set over moderate heat. Add leaves and turn with tongs to coat with dressing. Cook until leaves wilt but stems retain crunchy—about two minutes. Add scallion greens and toss.Arrange on a platter and pour any remaining dressing on top.

Wilted asian Green salad

» 1/4 cup rice vinegar (not seasoned)

» 3 tablespoons soy sauce

» 2 1/2 teaspoons sugar

» 1 1/2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger

» 1 1/2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil

» 6 cups tatsoi

» 6 cups mizuna

Heat vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, ginger and sesame oil in a small saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, until sugar is dissolved (do not boil). Pour hot dressing over greens in a large bowl and toss well. Serve immediately.