Mindful Metropolis June 2009 : Page 19

Almost 10 years ago, the Slow Food move- ment extended its reach and established a Slow Food USA office in New York City, how- ever, the movement’s growth has been painful- ly slow. Slow Food’s attempt to entrench itself in the land of endless drive-thru restaurants has met its fiercest competitor yet: 50 years of fast food culture ingrained in the American psyche, not to mention physique. Despite this uphill battle, Slow Food USA is showing prom- ise with more than 200 local chapters in the United States formed since its arrival. Among the problems facing Slow Food USA is the question: what would an historically Ameri- can food culture look like? Though tasty, few Americans would label culturally significant foods such as Philly’s cheesesteak, Chicago’s deep dish pizza and Boston’s baked beans, as healthy, well-rounded meals. This country’s short his- tory has produced an even shorter abundance of American recipes passed down through genera- tions, posing a problem for the Slow Food move- ment’s idea of local, cultural and traditional food. For these and other reasons, Slow Food USA has taken a different approach from its European pre- decessor. The Slow Food USA website, slowfood usa.org, projects the same core vision, yet reflects a slightly different emphasis on the mobilization of people to join the movement at a local level. Slow Food USA has a variety of home-grown pro- grams including: the U.S. Arc of Taste, which pro- motes certain domestic food products nearing extinction; Slow Food in Schools, which educates youth about eating locally and being healthy; and Slow Food on Campus, which teaches students “Americans in general seem less concerned with preserving biodiversity and avoiding GM-foods.” about food systems and food justice. Professionals and students from Chicago’s own DePaul University traveled to Tuscany— one of the strongholds of the Slow Food move- ment—to learn first-hand about food policies and healthy traditions promoted by the move- ment and protected by European policies. The trip’s objective was to recognize the centrality of food in our health, lifestyles economies and public policies. For a week, students observe the Slow Food movement and food policy in action as part of their Master’s studies. Many of the students returned anxious to create and participate in similar practices here in Chicago. One such method for participation exists through Chicago’s own local Slow Food chap- ter (slowfoodchicago.org), which has adapted its approach to suit the Windy City. The entire- ly volunteer organization provides listings for various Slow Food events, schedules for neigh- borhood farmer’s markets and recommenda- tions for local restaurants that adhere to the Slow Food principles. Local staples include Logan Square’s funky Lula’s Café or the Loop’s sky-scraping Everest. Regardless of price, there is a definite taste difference; the food is fresh, local and representative of the current sea- Join the Slow Food Movement here in Chicago A s part of a national organization with over 18,000 members, Slow Food is positioning itself to play an active role in advocacy for food policy with the debut of a nationwide “real school food campaign,” to share tips on how everyone can get involved to bring healthy quality food to school children. For those who are interested in local food advocacy, on Wednesday, August 26, Slow Food Chicago will host an Eat-In at Daley Plaza. Everyone is invited to bring their lunch and come to the table. The event will be a fun, energizing rally where people can learn more about where their food comes from and how eating can be a political act. Slow Food Chicago will host a number of delicious participatory events this summer, including the annual summer solstice fundraiser pot-luck for the Chicago Honey Co-op in mid-June. Held at the Co-op in North Lawndale, this is an opportunity to see urban agriculture and job training in action and to enjoy an evening of slow food outdoors under the Chicago sky. The Slow Food Chicago education series this summer will feature regional foods on the Ark of Taste. In the fall the organization will host a Tomato Festival to celebrate the bounty of home grown heirloom varieties with tastings and a potluck dinner. In September Slow Food Chicago will host a Summit on Forgotten Fruits hosted by the Renewing America’s Food Traditions program. This event will focus on backyard gardeners who want to learn more about growing unusual heritage and heirloom fruits. Culinary walking tours of various ethnic neighborhoods, including Little Village and Rogers Park, are also part of the taste and education series. Slow Food Chicago is well known for hosting fabulous tasting dinners that partner local farmers and other food artisans with well-known restaurants. Upcoming events will feature a week-long celebration of everyone’s favorite summer sandwich, the BLT. Featured restaurants will make a slow food version using heirloom tomatoes and other ingredients. Other fun events include an aphrodisiac dinner and the big blowout fundraiser BBQ in August to be held at the Goose Island gastro pub. Visit slowfoodchicago.org for more details on Slow Food Chicago events and membership information. mindfulmetropolis.com 19 son—food buffs will be hard-pressed to find any of spring’s harbingers like rhubarb and as- paragus on winter menus at these restaurants. In addition to promoting established Slow Food proponents, Slow Food Chicago has en- couraged the food education of Illinois’ youth. Slow Food Chicago was an integral part in creating the Edible Schoolyard in Evanston’s Dawes Elementary School where children not only learn about growing food, but also how to enjoy and savor the tastes of their products. However, there are decisive differences be- tween Slow Food USA and its European forerun- ner that are based largely on its local, constituent basis. Americans in general seem less concerned with preserving biodiversity and avoiding GM- foods. Although, biodiversity is still generally supported by all, Slow Food in the United States is less critical of the risks of GM-foods. The good news is that the Slow Food ideology is not a fad, but a knowledge expanding movement. Living in a metropolis like Chicago, it’s some- times difficult to recognize the interconnection between food, health, land and quality of life. Slow Food is a movement that reminds us how food is more than an object for personal, fast consumption. The central message of Slow Food is about recuperating the relations with our own bodies, fellow citizens, the environment and government policies. Slowing down to eat, rest, reflect, meditate, connect and rethink is a gift and an opportunity for all of us. Let’s take it! C Marco Tavanti, Ph.D., is Professor of Interna- tional Public Service at DePaul in Chicago.

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